Overdrive Sprocket Pulley Installation on a Victory Kingpin

I own a Victory Kingpin motorcycle. My Kingpin is a 2004 model with 5 speeds. With this bike being labeled a cruiser I found that at highway speeds, I needed to shift a lot when the engine speed dropped below a certain rpms.

This was annoying because I just wanted to stay at 70 mph in fifth gear and cruise. The OD pulley is actually IMHO an overdrive gear. It is the front "pulley" or final drive gear on the transmission out put / drive shaft.It is not a rear pulley and therefore does not impact the belt guard or any other external part.

I decided to purchase one of these aftermarket overdrive pulleys. Labor at a dealer would be between 1.5 and 2.0 hours at their labor rate. I decided to do the installation myself.This article will detail the steps I took to do the installation.

One - You will not lose any power in first gear and it just makes the bike drive a whole lot better a lower speeds. At higher speeds it drops the rpm's about 300 -350 rpms at 60mph.Two - You will get riding pleasure out of the pulley. It lowers your engine speeds in all gears, allows you to hold each gear longer and you may find you will shift less and enjoy the curves more.

Certainly your ride to and from the twisties will be more relaxed.Three - Your speedometer remains accurate. The sensor counts teeth not pulley diameter.Four - many, by themselves, have handled Installation with the proper tools.

Some performance information on what this pulley will do. You will lose a slight amount of torque at the initial launch [slightly more gas needs to be applied] but first gear is longer so the shift comes later.Because of this 1/4 mile times are pretty much identical with and without. To do the job you remove the exhaust then the cover. Remove the sprocket nut. Loosen the belt, and remove the sprocket.

It is a fairly easy job with the only hitch being belt alignment, and adjustment.A couple of points:.Your engine speed will be 7% lower in all gears.You use all of your existing hardware including your belt.Your speedometer remains accurate.The engine has plenty of torque to handle the pulley, even fully loaded.

You will need to mill your speedometer sensor for clearance; otherwise it's a "remove and replace" procedure.The following are my loose working notes. You should be able to follow along and makes sense of the key talking points as you attempt the installation.

I was doing other maintenance and decided to put the bike on a jack. You do not need to remove the wheel.In fact you want to leave it on to help in the removal of the sprocket. I removed the slip-on part of the exhaust first to lighten the exhaust. Remove the belt guard.Remove the right-side drive floor board so you can pull the exhaust off.

Prior to removing the exhaust, Note the condition of the exhaust flange nuts. The exhaust flange bolts may be rusted.Spray with WD-40 and let stand overnight to loosen them up.

After you get these flange nuts off, remove the exhaust.The Kingpin will have everything removed. Exhaust, belt cover, driver right-side floorboard.

Note the wheel does not have to be removed. In fact it should be installed to help in the removal of the sprocket.Removed the exhaust.With the exhaust off, remove the sprocket pulley cover.With the sprocket cover off you now see the sprocket.

Here I have the belt loose. You want it snug and the wheel on since this will be used as your resistance when removing the sprocket nut.Remove the sprocket lock plate screws and lock plate.

Remove the sprocket lock plate.The sprocket nut takes a 48mm socket. The nut has been Loctited at the factory. You can use either an Impact Wrench to remove.Another tip, heat it up to loosen the Loctite.

I used my heat gun. It took about 10-15 minutes to where I could simply hold the rear brake pedal and remove the nut. Let the sprocket cool down. It will slide right off.

Next, clean off any left over Loctite gunk off of the sprocket rod threads.After removing the nut you will have to loosen the belt to remove, and install the new pulley.The sprocket will slide right off after you loosen the belt.Here is the lonely drive shaft in wait of it's new drive sprocket.

Stay tuned for more since this is all the further I have gotten. I need to now order the new sprocket.Bike should be all the way tore down on the right side, Bags, Passenger Floor Board, Driver Floor Board and Controls, Side Cover for the Pulley, Belt Covers(top & bottom) and Belt removed.

worst part of the job was the Exhaust System, be careful with them and get some HELP!.Here's a picture of the bike ready to start putting it back together.Now clean everything you have removed and clean the Engine and all areas that are exposed.

Grind the Tab that holds the Speed Sensor(you will need to grind about 3/8's to 1/4" off the bottom of the Tab but not all the way to the side of the engine).Keep trying the OD Pulley until it goes all the way on without hitting the Tab.(Side Pulley Cover didn't need any grinding).Now install the Speed Sensor.using washers of a thickness of about 3/8's to 1/4" put them over the screw hole and then put the Speed Sensor on top of the washers, stick the bolt in and tighten down.Be sure to seat the pulley by using the following method:.

With no lock tight on the threaded are tighten to spec loosen and repeat. Then apply locktite, and tighten.Using Loctite (609) or (262): put some all the way around on the inside of the spline of the Pulley and slide it on the Output Shaft (where the old Pulley came off of) and then pull it back off and wipe off the excess Loctite from the Pulley and the Spline and then slide it back on and install the big 1 7/8 nut that holds the pulley on, now tighten the nut down real tight(don't know what the torque should be) I just tighten mine real tight.

then back the nut off and put some Loctite.Now put the Belt on both Pulleys and install the Side Cover, Install the Belt Covers (bottom 1st and top 2nd).Check wheel alignment and belt tension.With the bike elevated rotate the wheel till you find a still spot in the belt.You should have about 9mm of flex with 10lb of force on the bottom. The marks on the swing arm are USELESS.

After tension is set rotate the wheel about 20 times, and check belt tracking. If it is too far to the right move left side forward 1/4 turn same holds true but opposite for left. You will not get the belt centered.The idea is to keep it from rubbing on the sides of the rear sprocket.Now comes the fun! The Exhaust System: You should have clean/polished all the chrome after removing it(I did) in fact I took it all the way apart and polished it and even opened up the rear pipe so it would go back together easier.

: With HELP work it back into place and loosely tighten the Exhaust Manifold Nuts.cause you're going to be here for awhile.once again "Believe Me" this will eat some time!.

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By: Jim Noss